One of my resolutions for 2017 is to travel more, and the three-day weekend around Martin Luther King Jr. Day presented the first opportunity.
I wanted warmth, but didn’t want to go too far to get it, so the South was an idea. But Savannah immediately sprang to mind. Or to be accurate, it’s been hanging out in the back of my head ever since I wrote about this gorgeous 1840s Greek Revival home in the city’s Historic District. Months later came this tantalizing “walking tour” of Bull Street, which guides you through the heart of the Historic District to the enchanting Forsyth Park (its emblematic fountain seen above.)
My appetite was whet.
Come mid-January, with a (rather excellent) renovated circa-1890 home booked for the weekend, my longtime friend Melanie and I were delighted to leave New York’s 30s and overcast for Savannah’s 70s and perfect. As soon as the Uber dropped us off in front of our house (Lyft doesn’t yet have enough business there), we immediately found what would be our Millennial rhythm for the weekend: Walk, Instagram, charge phone, brunch, repeat.
And I’m not too shamed of it. I was drawn to Savannah for its charming historic buildings and that’s what I was going to get. But the trees! Of course I expected trees in Forsyth Park. And old streets were probably going to be tree-lined. But once I started snapping pictures, it became clear that Savannah’s architecture will always be photobombed by the soulful flora, and it was better for it. I freaking love Spanish moss.
Scottish Rite Temple on Bull St.
Hamilton-Turner Inn by Lafayette Square (wow the inside looks amazing)
Ballastone Inn on E. Oglethorpe Ave.
The Armstrong House on Bull St. right by Forsyth Park
Girl Scout First Headquarters on Drayton St.
Cathedral of St. John the Baptist by Lafayette Square
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While neither of us are huge foodies, we did come to town with a bunch of recommendations. I loved The Collins Quarter. The Aussie-inspired place was bright, airy, and the kind of spot where you’d expect to eat some Fresh Stuff. I loved what I got: Ahi Poke Tacos. It didn’t last very long, but every bite was 💯.
Another memorable meal was savored at Soho South Cafe, which, oops, is actually named after the Soho in New York. Housed in a formerly defunct car service station, the restaurant is industrial…vintage…artsy…chic? …with steel windows, a huge wooden garage door, shutters as decor, string lights, plants, artwork, and a pianist on a baby grand. This minimalist fried chicken/sides situation was the perfect portion for me. Finished every last bit.
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It’s weird. By our second afternoon there, I began feeling that Um, Savannah’s too perfect. And it’s probably because we literally just walked around the Historic District, soaking in a streetscape that was quiet, slow-paced, idyllic—but in an entirely consistent way. If and when I go back, I’d love to go on some tours, maybe drive out to Tybee Island, visit the SCAD Museum of Art (we forgot it would be closed on MLK day 😢 ) and explore more of the areas on the sides of and under Forsyth Park.
But there were still a few surprising discoveries this time around. Like stumbling upon this dreamy, dreamy wedding…Sigh.
And local art! We didn’t get to go the SCAD museum but we did wander into Savannah City Market near the river, which had converted warehouses full of artworks. Two artists who caught my eye—Vicci Waits and Sabree—both use bold colors and textures to dazzling effect.
And finally, the fog that rolled in real quick, real thick. This was around 10:00 pm near River Street…
So there you have it…Savannah, where even spooky is beautiful.
All photos by me
